Portugal: Like Northern California Except Affordable and Wonderfully Empty

On Thursday we pulled the boys early from school and headed west to the wild and wonderful Alentejo coast of Portugal. Spent two days eating simple, hearty and delicious meals while ogling the tiny towns and gorgeous empty beaches. Then popped up to Lisboa for coastal city life. And dang it all to hell, I've fallen in love with yet another place! 

Leo spent a long time packing all of his important items into his backpack the night before we left. Thank God he remembered these oversize orange novelty glasses.

Can take the boys out of America, but can't take the road-tripping-junk-food-loving America out of the boys.

We crossed into Portugal and drove a little north, a little west, a little north, a little west until we landed at the cozy and lovely Herdade de Matinha. Herdade means homestead, or large rural property in Portuguese. This place was 15 minutes from the roaring coast and set back in the hills. Horses, huge modern art pieces, candles, warm and friendly staff, charming comfy common rooms for relaxing and wonderful smells emanating from the open kitchen welcomed us in.

Both boys were in their element -- Leo pretended like he was the lord of the manor and Will could laze around and check out what was happening in the warm and inviting dining room/kitchen whenever he wanted.  Woke up to this gloriousness the following morning:

All the trees were teeming with oranges. 

After a long and luxurious breakfast of loads of nutella, 400 different jams, crepe pancakes, fruit, tea, & fresh squeezed orange juice, we jumped in the car for our day on the coast. It was a bit like driving down a completely unpopulated and non-winding Highway 1 in California. Felt exhilarating and wonderful to be back at the beach.

If you get a magnifying glass, you can spot the boys playing and getting wild in the distance. 

This was the Odeceixe beach. Saw 5 people while we picnicked and the boys took a skinny dip. 

This child finds a stick and wields it like a samurai wherever we happen to be. 

We drove down the coast and stopped at about 4 different beaches/towns. And my poor Patter just forlornly looked out into the waves wishing there was a surf shop open anywhere near us (He tried! We called from the hotel and stopped by a couple spots, but the places were closed for the winter or more likely because the workers/owners were out surfing themselves) We hope to go back before our time here is over to enjoy the beaches and the chiringuitas (these boarded up bars on the beach are what I was staring longingly/forlornly at)  

The next day we ate 500 more pounds of nutella, said goodbye to the wonderful people at the farm, and headed 2 hours north to Lisboa. 

Lisbon. You just get me. 

I guess I was yearning for a colorful, gritty-in-the-best-way city, full of hills and vistas of the ocean, the air salty and fresh from the sea and a bountiful buzzy international food scene. I felt right at home in Lisboa. I mean, this tree alone made my heart sing (who doesn't love a huge amazing climbing tree one foot away from a cafe/bar in a bustling but casual city plaza?...the following photos were taken from my seat as I was sipping a cold beer and munching on some fries)

We met good friends of good friends, Ansel and Maddie, who have lived in Lisbon for three years and took us on a wonderful & relaxing walking, drinking, eating tour of the town. We met in Principe Real Park and obviously before we could continue on, had to get the kids their own tiny hot dark chocolates. These children won't eat anything less than 70% cacao. Nellie and Leo were fast wild heart friends while Jimmy and Will immediately bonded over Harry Potter and Gryffindor House.

When we asked Ansel and Maddie what are some must-sees or dos in Lisbon they said that this was pretty much it: walking, eating, drinking, relaxing.  Um, ok, doing my 4 favorite things all day? Yes, I can handle that. 

 After a few bars and a few kilometers we ended up at Will's dream spot: a casual Brazilian steak house. I hope he will answer his many fans' requests and write a post about it, so will only show one pic.

The next day, it was just the Core Four and we walked a million miles and basically just ate good food and loved every minute of it. My kids don't complain, whine or get involved in weird play fighting that turns into real fighting followed by tears as we tour along the streets. They aren't annoying at all. What I'm saying is that we are perfect family with no problems on vacation.

This is actually only true when we are eating good food. Which happened at breakfast (vegan whole food smoothie spot), lunch (authentic Mexican tacos) and dinner (Pho, Bao & Noodles) 

Also, word to the wise to never judge an Airbnb by the outside of the building. I was like, meh, when I found out the building on the right (after hoping so hard it was the building on the left) was our home for 2 days.

And then we walked in and I was in design heaven. 

We headed out of the city on Monday morning over a familiar looking bridge (sub in Treasure Island for the the enormous Jesus statue and it's like we are on the Bay Bridge) and were back in Granada by nightfall. I hope to be back in Portugal before we leave this summer and am looking for takers who want to eat, walk, drink and relax with me there!